Shoe Construction Methods

This type of assembly is the most common in different types of shoes and different materials. The mounting edge is turned towards the inside of the shoe and is glued onto the mounting insole, the sole is fixed to the insole and to the cut through glue and/or nails.

The mounting edge faces the outside of the shoe, the cut is fixed to the insole through a seam and the sole can also be sewn.

This type of fitting is widely used in sports, comfort and safety footwear. The main feature of this type of assembly is that the upper is sewn to the insole forming a bag. No margin required for assembly. The shape is introduced inside under pressure.

There is no assembly per se, the shoe is lasted and the heel is turned inwards, the sole is glued by the normal process and does not require a finishing insole.

Similar construction that is characterized by the seam of the cut to the insole through a specific seam that took the name of the machine in which it is made – Strobel.

The Goodyear construction features the following elements: Cut/vamp, mounting insole, instep, midsole, toe, sole. An assembly insole with glued rib is used, the assembly edge is turned towards the inside of the shoe, excess material is eliminated, the turn, cut and rib are sewn, this seam is not visible on the finished shoe, the padding serves to fill the space corresponding to the height of the rib, this also brings extra comfort, the midsole or sole is joined to the welt through a seam. It is this seam that is visible on the finished shoe.

The moccasin construction can be considered a variant. The upper acts and is extended to the insole as the side of the foot with a “mirror or attached piece, so that the seam joins this piece to the upper at the top of this also becoming decorative.

The cut preparation is similar to California moccasin type or “String-lasting”, the last is made of metal, rubber strips are applied in a mold, the mold is closed (shape with the cut) and subjected to heating - vulcanization, after the sole operation is in the desired configuration.

Technically, any type of mounting could be used as a base, but the most used are: Tubular, moccasin, string lasting, the shape is made of metal, a heel is placed, the mold is closed by the shoe already mounted on the shape, the granulated is liquefied and injected - PU, TR and PVC, the sole may have different costumes, profiles, imitations, colors or combinations.

Stitch-Down is an ancient and rather primitive method of shoe construction. Again, you can recognize it by the way the vamp folds in a unique way by being pulled out and sewn directly onto the midsole and outsole. This method makes good casual, sturdy waterproof shoes, as the idea was for the water to flow out rather than inside the shoe.

Instead of using the standard technique of wrapping the vamp around a rigid sockliner - the Sacchetto construction involves sewing the upper to a flexible lining to form a 'sock-like' bag, a soft piece of foam is inserted for added comfort. comfort - to finish off, the sole is then added. This makes the shoe super soft and flexible underfoot.

In the San Crispino construction method, the upper is folded inwards to wrap around the insole and then stitched by hand. In this process, stitching holes are punched in the upper and insole, which are then sewn together. The final product is flexible, sturdy and elegant.